Winter Surf

Christmas Day 2012. No better way for me to celebrate the holidays than to get my head wet after months in Italy and away from my Pacific Ocean.

After visits with family, we headed North, to friends in Ventura… the surf looked fun enough to justify a quick go-out along the way.

Pitas Point at Low Tide. I have surfed here for years… its almost like a second home. On any given winter’s day, Rincon will be jammed with surfers, and the Ranch sometimes a bit too far to drive. Pitas never fails to provide joy, even at minus tide and a tiny winter swell…

 

… all the better with a sandbar that made for wickedly hollow little inside waves….

Too much fun! For me Winter is the absolute best time of year to surf in California. So many right breaks, less crowds, spectacular sunsets and no June Gloom.

I’m inspired by the skies of Winter, the tonal colors of the landscape and the peaceful introspective atmosphere. On so many occasions my surfing experiences have inspired some of my favourite paintings.

“West of the Gate, Hollister Ranch”

Just me, a few birds and a body boarder… and a whole lot of gratitude to be out in the water on Christmas Day.

“Sunrise at Bulito Beach” Hollister Ranch
from the archives: Caroline and The Duke, Bishop Museum,
Honolulu, Hawaii

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